Style: Aged Rhum Agricole
Age: 1-3 years
Proof: Fumée Volcanique: 98 proof (49% ABV), Épices Créoles: 92 proof (46% ABV), Jardin Fruité: 84 proof (42% ABV)
Region: Martinique

The world of rum is both vast and deep. Rum is made all over the world using a wide variety of techniques that impart unique flavors onto the finished product. Among the most singular styles of rum is rhum agricole from the Caribbean island of Martinique. Rhum agricoles are distinguished primarily by the use of fresh sugar cane juice instead of molasses. When distilled from fresh cane juice, the finished rum has a direct tie to the land that manifests in flavor nuances derived from where and how the cane was grown.

Among the top producers of rhum agricole in Martinique is Rhum J.M. We reviewed the excellent Terroir Volcanique last year, but the distillery has returned with three new terroir-influenced expressions. The new L’Atelier des Rhums Series consists of three different rums all aged and blended to reflect different aspects of the unique environment of Martinique; Fumée Volcanique (Volcanic Smoke), Épices Créoles (Creole Spice), and Jardin Fruité (Fruit Garden). Let’s taste our way through the terroirs of Martinique.

Tasting notes

Fumée Volcanique was aged 12-14 months in bourbon barrels that have received an “extreme” char treatment at the Rhum J.M distillery’s on-site cooperage. On the nose, Fumée Volcanique is sweet and fruity with predominant notes of lime, and lychee, balanced by light caramel, honey, and a whiff of smoke. The smoky character imparted by the heavily charred barrels is also present on the palate and is complemented by gentle citrus, honey, vanilla, and light grassiness. The finish leads with a burst of allspice on the back palate and slips into caramel and vanilla as it fades out.

Épices Créoles has aged a minimum of 3 years in French and American Oak barrels. The distillery chose a mix of different char levels and wood types with the intent to emphasize the spice character that spirits often pick up from barrel maturation. The most prominent aromatic note on this rum is fresh orange. That strong, sweet citrus character is bolstered by lime and lemongrass with vanilla, caramel, and prominent baking spice that any bourbon drinker would find familiar. Once sipped, this rum lives up to its namesake with an ever-shifting symphony of cinnamon, black pepper, clove, nutmeg, and allspice. All with a background of sweet citrus, and vanilla that carries to the finish.

The third rum of the Atelier series is the Jardin Fruité. This rum was aged for 24 months and similarly to the Épices Créoles, rested in French and American Oak barrels of differing degrees of char. A strong fruit character is present in every expression in this set, but the Jardin Fruité zeroes in on an almost floral aroma of ripe pineapple, banana, and sweet vanilla. Upon sipping, the rum melts into a juicy mix of mango, passionfruit, cinnamon, and citrus with a whiff of smoke. The mouthfeel is juicy and the finish is heavy on the vanilla and passionfruit. The Jardin Fruité is almost like a tiki cocktail distilled into a single rum.

Final thoughts

From smoky, to spice-forward and fruity, each of these three rums expertly reflects the influences they are named after. Each distinct flavor profile is a testament to the skill and thoughtful intent that Rhum J.M and Master Blender Karine Lassalle brought to the barrel aging and blending process. These rums work best when enjoyed as a complementary set. When sipped side-by-side, they offer a tasting experience that highlights the ways that barrel maturation and careful blending contribute to the flavor of each rum in this series. I highly recommend the Atelier series for any adventurous and thoughtful drinker who enjoys sipping on quality rums.