Style: Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey
Age: 13 years
Proof: 100 (50% ABV)
Region: Bardstown, Kentucky
Any whiskey enthusiast who has spent time perusing bottle shots on Instagram and Reddit is familiar with Old Fitzgerald. The brand’s gorgeous decanter bottles are a point of pride and envy among bourbon collectors and are often found in the same rarefied air as bottles of Van Winkle and Willett Family Reserve.
The latest Old Fitzgerald release commemorates 25 years since Heaven Hill’s acquisition of the old Bernheim distillery and with it the Old Fitzgerald brand. This whiskey is made from Heaven Hill’s wheated mash bill of 68% corn, 20% wheat, and 12% malted barley. Without getting too “inside baseball”, Old Fitzgerald and the bottle’s namesake hold a special place in bourbon history. Let’s see if this special Bottled-In-Bond, anniversary edition lives up to Old Fitzgerald’s pedigree.
Tasting notes
The color of this bourbon is a striking rust with a glint of reddish-maroon. The nose is very warm with notes of cinnamon, allspice, dark cherry, and caramel apple. On first pour, the aroma feels a bit stronger than its proof point may suggest, but after a few minutes of resting, the nose settles into a more welcoming balance of baking spice. Once sipped, the baking spice gives way to a rich and sweet flavor that reminds me of cinnamon “red hot” candy with a syrupy, almost medicinal cherry note. Underneath those candy-like flavors, a ripe, red apple note carries this whiskey to a rich, syrupy finish that is reminiscent of dark cherry, maple syrup, and baking spice.
Final thoughts
Wheated bourbons are often approached with the preconception that they are going to be perhaps “softer” or “more mellow” than the standard high rye mash bills. This expression of Old Fitzgerald might be the exception that proves the rule. It’s packed full of vibrant baking spice and a syrupy candy-like sweetness that refuses to pull any punches. The medicinal cherry notes, which I’m assuming are the result of a slight tannic bitterness acquired from the barrel aging, may be off-putting to some drinkers. With the dark fruit, maple syrup, and baking spice, I feel like the cough syrup bite provides a welcome balance to the rich sweetness of this whiskey.
Overall, it’s a satisfying and unique pour, but it may not be for everyone. With its price point, the limited allocation, and the stunning decanter bottle, I imagine most of the 25th Anniversary bottles of Old Fitzgerald will be scooped up by collectors. Don’t hesitate to crack your bottle open if you’re lucky enough to find one — it’s a very unique pour.
